Bow knife

Why do I need a knife for 3D archery?

The question is answered quite quickly when your arrow is embedded in the wood as if it were cemented in place. Of course, you could be SO good and never sink an arrow off-center again, or you could be so rich that you're constantly stocking up on new arrows—whatever, the rest of the text: Arrows primarily like to stick in that one small, very, very hard core of the old rootstock, because otherwise it would be boring.

With living trees a strong, straight tug is usually enough to free the arrow. If even this tug is not enough: DO NOT cut huge holes around the arrow! (Firstly, the tree doesn't like that, and secondly it is considered damage to the forest, which the forest owner is less than happy about.) You place the tip of the blade next to the arrow and try to widen the wood fibers with minimal interference by driving the blade into the wood parallel to the shaft and then gently turning the knife. It is also easy if you drive the knife in the direction of the grain, for example: over the arrow into the wood and then lever it out. Spine of the blade towards the arrow. And THAT is when you usually notice very quickly that the cheap €25 knife is about to give up the ghost. (The risk of injury is also pretty high with these parts.) So far so good, but what do I use now?

First of all: no folding knife! You can, but you need one with a VERY sturdy clasp, and those only come in the 150 euro range (exceptions prove the rule). The general rule is: whether classic or modern, the important thing is the material used, the craftsmanship, and the feel. And: NO hollow-ground blade, as the cutting edge is very thin and the tip can't hold up. The most stable knives are full-tang/flat-tang designs; these have the blade steel running through the handle the full height and length, and have a handle scale on both sides.

It's advantageous, for example, for chiseling work, if the full tang extends over the end of the handle and can be used as a striking surface. (You just need solid, properly hardened steel that can withstand high warpage.) Such knives are available in sturdy designs starting at around €60 on the market – please ask your specialist dealer – not online. If you prefer something simple, sturdy, and inexpensive: grab a chisel. These tools work very well and are gentle on trees and arrows – they only have the following disadvantages:

• We are far from chic.
• Cutting bacon, hard sausage and bread becomes a challenge at the refreshment stop

Gerry Windisch has been working in a leading knife shop with in-house production for over 25 years. He has turned his passion into a profession and is a specialist in all types of knives and cutting tools. www.messerkoenig.at | www.darkstalker.at | facebook.com/Messerkoenig . Regarding archery: It all began with homemade hazelnut bows and arrows – then a brief interlude with compound bows. For 12 years, he has been intuitively practicing various courses with his beloved gamemaster (and, of course, with his equally beloved wife :-)). He has also been the head coach of "Systema Wien" Russian martial arts for 15 years, and he loves single malts.